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Post by Steve on Dec 8, 2004 19:12:46 GMT
Any clever ideas on how to secure when parked up ?
and how to perhaps use them without the engine running. The electrics would be easy and a 24v compressor maybe possible but i feel my cylinders leak to much for this to be a viable option.
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Post by Jonathan Smith on Dec 8, 2004 20:11:56 GMT
The air tanks are needed for brakes and suspension so it is important that they are in good condition and do not leak. The vehicle will fail the MOT if there is audible air leaks.
It is normal on any vehicle for the air pressure to drop off when the engine is not running. So a compressor could be used to keep them topped up when parked up.
I use a bike lock to secure the doors on my bus, I have four panel front doors which run on a top runner, I wrap the lock around the roller arms and the pole between the doors. It is quite effective.
I have considered rigging a steel bar behind the doors on the inside to stop the doors being pushed open.
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Post by Bruce Henderson on Dec 13, 2004 3:24:08 GMT
I have a set of handrails on the interior section of my 4-panel doors (front and rear). For now, my rather in-elegant is to drop a 1X3 piece of wood (about 16" long) into these handrails. It works for now but will need a better solution, long-term. My more pressing consideration is a lock for the emergency door at the off-side rear. I'm guessing that a cable with a padlock (cable around a "standee's" pole in the interior to the frame of the door) will work temporarily. I'd provide enough slack that I can reach in with the padlock key but not enough that intruders can enter. The long-term solution would be some kind of proper keyed lock on the emergency door lever (or deadbolt on the frame). Bruce Henderson, North Carolina USA
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Post by Jonathan on Dec 14, 2004 8:40:56 GMT
We have two emergency doors at the back of dragon bus, one on each side. The bus already had Hasps on these doors. They cleverly put two staples on so that the hasp can either be locked open or locked shut with a padlock. So it is impossible to be locked in. These can be rivetted onto the bus and prevent the door from being opened, even if the door handle is completely open. We have a quick release hook on the inside of the door, so the door can be secured from the inside when parked. Using wood on entry doors is fine, but it is possible to reach through the rubber flaps between the doors and move it from the outside. We used this method before we fitted the bus out, as there was nothing to steal [other than the bus].
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Post by jimmy193 on Jan 29, 2005 13:43:03 GMT
I am assuming busses are not fitted with locks as standard cost-cutting and because they usually return to a central depot at night or when not in use. Glad I bought a coach now rather than a bus. The emergency door at the rear has a proper Yale lock which simply locks the opening handle. The front single air-operated door has a push down and twist locking stud which also locks the opening handle - no key required. I had thought about putting a hasp (similar to yours Jonathan) on the front door but changed my mind last time I locked myself out with the keys still in the ignition. For obvious reasons I wont divulge how I got in, sufficient to say it took me over an hour without any damage to George. Now thinking of attaching myself to the ignition keys with a long piece of chan. Regards, Jim
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steve
New Member
Posts: 30
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Post by steve on Mar 31, 2005 18:22:24 GMT
The air leak isnt major and cant be heard especially with the engine running. Important systems have seperate tanks and fill up first the doors seem to be last. The problem turned out to be alimit switch on the centre door that cuts out the throttle and as these systems are air operated it looked like an air problem.
The rear emergency exit was secured by using a hasp type lock but the kind that has a built in lock from screwfix.
For the centre and front door pad bolts were modified to give them a longer reach by drilling out the rivits moving the curved part back and angle grinding the base down these were then rivites together and on to the doors at the same time.
The center door halves rotate around so two bolts were fitted horozonatally at the top with holes for the bolts being drilled into the partitions at the side of each door.
The front door folds in the middle therefore only one bolt was required vertically with a hole being drilled close to the runner track at the top.
All bolts fitted internally. We may repeat at the bottom if we feel the need but really if anyone was going to that trouble it would be easier to break or pop a window out
After seing b&q prices of anything up to 10 quid each we got them from the local small diy shop for 1.70 each
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Post by billsbus on Jun 21, 2008 12:22:58 GMT
Hi All, I'm new here and this is my first post. I recently purchased an Iveco Ford 40 10 minibus which has a bi-fold door. The main issue I have is that the brushes and rubber edging are just not practical. They are far too draughty. There is a door lock but it doesn't work. I've bought a caravan door which has it's own frame that is typically rounded. This is beginning to look like a more difficult job than I first imagined. I'm wondering about the legislation concerning the use of timber framing. I think the easiest way to fit the door and frame would be to attach them to a timber frame and then panel around with aluminium panelling.
Any ideas,tips and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks
billsbus
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Post by affinity on Apr 22, 2010 21:43:31 GMT
We are having the same problem billsbus. How onearth do you insulate a folding door? It is very draughty and is the main cause of letting in the cold. If you found any answers to this problem we would love to hear them. Thanks Dave and Kate
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